Belleville (Re)Discovery of an Ever Evolving Parisian District

A very cosmopolitan neighborhood with a lively nightlife and rich in street art… Belleville is one of the most trendy districts in the capital. There are lots of things to do in this ever evolving district which is the birthplace of the famous Edith Piaf. Its popular village atmosphere pleases both tourists and locals -Paris has more than one face! Here is our guide to (re)discover the Belleville district. 

Belleville
Here is a little guide to discover the Belleville district. (Credits: LPLT / Wikimedia Commons under CC BY-SA)

 

Where is the Belleville District?

Located on a hill which overlooks Paris, Belleville is a charming district in the 20th arrondissement.

However, Parisians often consider Belleville to be much bigger than its current official size. For them, it straddles the boundaries of the 10th, 11th, 19th and 20th arrondissements, which corresponds to the location of the old town of Belleville.

To get there, take the underground line 11 or 2 (Belleville) or the bus line 20, 26, 71 or 96.

 

What to do in Belleville?

Admire Street Art

Street Art
Credits: Ithmus under Creative Commons 2.0

Belleville is THE temple of street art.

There are original and colorful works of art everywhere, all of which are very creative. You will be surprised and amazed at every street corner!

There are even guided tours to discover Belleville street art as it is really a big thing in this district.

My Urban Experience organizes one which will help you understand the codes, the history and the realization techniques of this modern art.

 

Price: 

-Adults: 15 euros.

-Children (under 12): 7.50 euros.

Buy your tickets directly on the official website of My Urban Experience.

Duration: 1:30

Distance traveled: 2km.

Meeting point: In front of the restaurant “Le Président”, underground station Belleville (line 2 and 11).

 

Visit Artists’ Workshops

There is not only street art in Belleville. In the rue Francis Picabia, you can meet artists outside of museums and discover them in their workshops.

Some artists open their workshops all the time, others only a few days a year when associations organize open days.

Address: 1 rue Francis Picabia

Price: Free.

Opening hours: The Galerie des Artistes de Belleville is opened from Thursday to Sunday from 2pm to 8pm.

Open days are often organized in May, for further information click here.

Are you still hesitant about visiting artists’ workshops ? Here is a video of the 2018 open days.

 

Take a Walk in the Parc de Belleville

Parc de Belleville
Credits: Mbzt / Wikimedia Commons under CC BY

This 45,000 m² park is located on the top of Belleville. From here, you can enjoy a wonderful view of Paris and, especially, of the Eiffel Tower.

This park is a true breath of fresh air in a capital which is always crowded and dynamic. It is the perfect place to charge your batteries.

There are many areas for children and there are also 140 vine stocks as this small hill used to be a vineyard.

Address: 47 Rue des Couronnes, 75020 Paris

Price: Free open visit.

If you want to, you can enjoy a guided tour of the Parc de Belleville. For more information, visit this website (website in French).

Opening hours: The park opens at 8am on weekdays and at 9am on weekends and bank holidays.

It closes at 5:45pm, 7pm, 8:30pm or 9:30pm depending on the season.

To know the exact opening hours, click here (website in French).

 

Delight your Taste Buds in the Street Food Market

Once a month (usually on a Thursday evening), you can go to the Belleville street food market and enjoy food from all other the world -italian, chinese, mexican… You will be spoilt for choice!

It works like a fruit and vegetable market -there are several stands where they sell fresh cooked food. You can eat there on big tables or take your dinner home, as you want!

Address: On the Boulevard de Belleville.

Opening hours: from 6pm to 10:30pm.

For more information, visit the Facebook page of the Street Food Market (Facebook page in French).

 

Visit the Belleville Chinese District

Chinese restaurant
A Chinese restaurant in Belleville. (Credits: Guilhem Vellut from Paris, France / Wikimedia Commons under CC BY )

For years, immigrants from many nationalities have come to Belleville. It is now a cosmopolitan area with people from many different nationalities.

Among all these nationalities, there is one which is very present in the district -the Chinese community.  Shops, restaurants, mini-markets … Enjoy the exotic atmosphere of this place.

Address: Most of Chinese shops and restaurants are located on the Rue de Belleville and on a part of the Boulevard Belleville.

 

Take a walk along the Rue des Cascades

Rue des Cascades
Credits: Mbzt / Wikimedia Commons under CC BY

This street was named after the old artificial waterfalls that were used to collect and filter the water from Belleville’s several sources.

This long, narrow street, with its old-styled little bars, has managed to keep the charm of the old Belleville. With its colorful buildings and its stone manholes, this street lends itself to interesting pictures.

Maurice Delbez (a French film director) took his inspiration from this street for his movie “La Rue des Cascades”. If you are fan of this movie director, this little walk will delight you.

 

Where to eat in Belleville?

Mensae

Mensae
Credits: Mensae

This restaurant serves modern bistro cuisine and was created by two former finalists of the French cooking show Top Chef: Thibault Sombardier and Maxime Bouttier.

They serve revisited traditional French dishes and original inventions as well. This restaurant is not to be missed.

Frogs’ legs with garlic and parsley, button mushroom risotto, light chocolate mousse … The perfect match between traditional and modern cooking.

Price range: 20 euros for a lunch menu.

Address: 23 Rue Melingue, 75019 Paris France

Opening hours: From Tuesday to Saturday – 12:15pm to 2:30 pm and 7:15 pm to 10:30pm.

Phone number: 01 53 19 80 98

Ratings: -Google: 4,5/5

-Tripadvisor: 4,5/5

Website: Mensae Restaurant Paris (website in French)

 

La cave de Belleville

La Cave de Belleville
Credits: La Cave de Belleville

The decoration of this restaurant makes it a very charming place. It is a cross between a wine bar and a grocery shop, where you eat on big wooden tables surrounded by shelves full of bottles of wine.

The cooking is simple and often cold -tapas, cold cuts, cheese, salads,… La cave de Belleville is also a wine bar so you will have a lot of choice and will get good advice.

They organize thematic wine tasting sessions twice a week.

It is also a grocery shop.

Address: 51 Rue de Belleville, 75019 Paris France

Opening hours: From Monday to Saturday – 10am to 6pm.

Phone number: 01 40 34 12 95

Ratings: -Google: 4,6/5

-Tripadvisor: 4/5

Website: La cave de Belleville (website in French).

 

Wenzhou

We already told you,  Belleville is a cosmopolitan district where the Chinese community is very present. It was impossible for us not to mention a Chinese restaurant in this guide!

Wenzhou opened in 1992 and has become a reference for Chinese food. They serve a tasty cuisine. Their specialty: Chinese filled buns, the bests in all Belleville, they say!

If you are a vegetarian, this restaurant is perfect for you as they serve lots of meals without meat.

Address: 24 Rue de Belleville, 75020 Paris France

Opening hours: Everyday except on Thursday – 11am to 10:30pm.

Phone number: 01 46 36 56 33

Ratings: -Google: 4,2/5

-Tripadvisor: 4/5

Website: Restaurant Wenzhou Paris (website in French)

 

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    Where to go out in Belleville?

    Belleville is the perfect district to go out, as nights are very lively there.

    Here is our selection of the best places to have a drink in Belleville.

     

    Aux Folies

    Let’s start this selection with an inevitable, unequaled, unmissable bar in Belleville: Aux Folies.

    This lively bar has brought the district to life for years and is still very popular.

    People crowd it and go there to enjoy pints and glasses of wine at very affordable prices for Paris (drink moderately!)

    The staff is very friendly and joyful.

    Address: 8 Rue de Belleville, 75020 Paris France

    Opening hours: Everyday – 7am to 2am.

    Phone number: 06 28 55 89 40

    Ratings: -Google: 4,1/5

    -Tripadvisor: 4/5

    Website: Aux Folies (website in French)

     

    Moncoeur Belleville

    Moncoeur Belleville
    Credits: Moncoeur Belleville

    This bar overlooks all the city: in just one look, you have a general view of the city and even of the Eiffel Tower.

    Moncoeur Belleville has a terrace located on a small cobbled square with trees; a perfect place to go to in order to forget the stressful Parisian atmospheres.

    Far away from the sounds of cars, order a drink and enjoy the calm and lively atmosphere of the district.

    They also serve food.

    Address: 1 Rue des Envierges, 75020 Paris France

    Opening hours: Everyday – 10am to 2am.

    Phone number: 01 43 66 38 54

    Ratings: -Google: 3,6/5

    -Tripadvisor: 3,5/5

    Website: Moncoeur Belleville (website in French)

     

    Café Chéri(e)

    Café Chéri(e)
    Credits: Café Chéri(e)

    From Thursday to Saturday night, the bar welcomes DJs for the greatest pleasure of music and dance lovers.

    The rest of the time, enjoy cocktails and pints in a lively and fun atmosphere.

    Note that on weekends it is sometimes difficult to find a seat.

    Address: 44 Boulevard de la Villette, 75019 Paris France

    Opening hours: Everyday – 5pm to 2am.

    Phone number: 09 53 05 93 36

    Ratings: -Google: 4/5

    -Tripadvisor: 3,5/5

    Facebook page: Café Chéri(e) (Facebook page in French)

     

    Where to sleep in Belleville?

    Hôtel des Pyrénées ***

    Hôtel des Pyrénées

    This hotel is located in the 20th arrondissement, 700 meters away from the underground station Belleville.

    The rooms are modern and all have a private bathroom and a flat screen TV.

    Wi-Fi internet access is available.

    Breakfast is delicious and it is possible to enjoy it in your room.

    Visitors love the location of this hotel -in the centre of the 20th arrondissement, you will be perfectly located!

    Address: 399 Bis Rue des Pyrénées, 75020 Paris France

    Price: From 120 euros for a night in a double room with private bathroom.

    To book: Hôtel des Pyrénées

     

    Hôtel Scarlett ***

    Hôtel Scarlett

    Just a two-minute walk from the Parc de Belleville, the Hôtel Scarlett is a trendy Belleville hotel.

    Rooms are chic and modern. They are decorated with little touches of color and all have Wi-Fi internet access, a flat-screen TV and a minibar.

    Breakfast can be provided to customers for an additional charge.

    The Hôtel Scarlett has a bar lounge and a terrace.

    Address: 1 Rue Jouye-Rouve, 75020 Paris France

    Price: 107 euros for a night in a classic double room.

    To book: Hôtel Scarlett

     

    Hôtel Ermitage *

    Hôtel Ermitage

    This basic hotel is located 700 meters away from parc de Belleville.

    Rooms are simple but practical. They have Wi-Fi internet access and a TV.

    The hotel has a restaurant and there is a parking not far away.

    Note that you need to climb stairs to access the rooms so we do not recommend this hotel for people with reduced mobility.

    Address: 42 Rue de l’Ermitage, 75020 Paris France

    Price: 50 euros for a night in a single room with bathroom and toilets.

    65 euros for a night in a double room with bathroom and toilets.

    To book: Hôtel Ermitage